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- Hurtigruten Pole to Pole - Week 13
Patagonia & Antarctica Ultimate Adventure - Antarctica In the final week of our 13-week Pole to Pole cruise on the MS Roald Amundsen with Hurtigruten Expeditions , we experience the big white wonder of the world and our 7th continent - Antarctica. Day 85 - At Sea, Cape Horn & Drake Passage We started the day with the news we had been waiting for for over 85 days: we won the lottery for kayaking in Antarctica and were in Group A, which provided us with the highest chance to get out on the water should the weather permit. We were very fortunate, as most of the 400 passengers also had this activity on their bucket list, with only four landings scheduled, a maximum of two sessions per landing and eight kayaks per session; you do the math, we were two lucky ones. Crossing the Drake Passage takes about two days; we had heard so many horror stories over the past few months from fellow passengers who had experienced the 'Drake Shake', so we were very fortunate to be blessed with the 'Drake Lake' for our crossing. Yesterday, we were scheduled for a landing on Cape Horn. Unfortunately, the winds were too strong, resulting in a no-go, so we continued our path to the Antarctic Peninsula. When we first set out on this cruise, we were unaware that the chances of landing on the mainland of Antarctica were meagre, as we had booked a Pole-to-Pole cruise. As most are quick to let you know, our landings would be on the South Shetland Islands and the Antarctic Peninsula; this is not Antarctica. Therefore, you haven't visited Antarctica. Although we suggest otherwise, as we have come this far, the peninsula is part of visiting Antarctica in our book. It's a little like you have seen Tasmania, and then to find out you haven't been to Australia, or you have been to Koh Samui, but have you been to Thailand - yes, of course! Today was making the most of a relaxing sea bay before the big arrival. Day 86 - Half Moon Island, South Shetland Islands, Antarctica Welcome to our final continent; all seven are now ticked off! This continent has always been on our bucket list, and finally, setting foot on the icy continent of Antarctica has been fulfilled. As the fog lifted this morning to present the majestic views, they were breathtaking, like nothing we have ever seen. Blessed to be joined by the sun and blue skies, we cruised closer to the first land we had seen over the past few days. The pictures were priceless and a great taster of what was to come. There is so much ice! The elevations were surprising; these mountains are enormous! We later learned Antarctica has the highest average heights in the world. Our kayaking adventure was postponed due to the stronger winds, so we layered up for the landing on Half Moon Island. As we approached the island, we could see all the little penguins and spotted a few whales, so we were excited! Especially as it is usually too early in the season for whales. The landing took us across to land where we could experience being up close and personal with the penguins, two breeds; the main colony were chinstraps who come to breed (up to 15000 eventually) and then the Gentoos who come to hang out by the water. They were adorable and clumsy as they would make their way down to the sea to feed, constantly tripping over their little feet; you could sit by and watch them all day. They didn't seem to be bothered by us humans, so they continued getting on with their day. It was cold, around zero, so thankfully, we layered up and enjoyed the hour on land. We were mesmerised by the natural wonder and adorable penguins surrounding us. As we were leaving, we sat with the penguins, just enjoying being near these birds full of character; oversee the following for a giggle, the one on the left:-) We can't wait for the next few days to experience this majestic place on Earth. Day 87 - Wilhelmina Bay, Antarctica Today was fascinating; let's start in reverse! Heavy snow set in during dinner, and we scored a window table to ensure we could experience heavy snowfall while cruising; the first time we had been on a cruise and the ocean with snow, it was pretty surreal and beautiful, especially in Antarctica. It was heavy snow, and the snowflakes were the size of a cotton plant; it was what movies and picture books are made about. As dinner progressed, the deep blue ocean that engulfed us transitioned into a tinge of foggy grey; it was freezing over as the snow settled, and a thin layer of sea ice was beneath us. Let's jump back to the morning; it was an early start as our Kayaking was scheduled; take two. We made sure to fill our bellies with some fuel, and during breakfast, the news came it was cancelled. The weather was changing rapidly, and snow was gracing us with her presence; we did enjoy the morning show with the seals relaxing on the icebergs as we cruised by. The ship quickly changed its navigation from our original destination, Orne Harbour, to a new location, Wilhelmina Bay, where we could bring out the zodiacs and all get a chance for a scenic cruise through the sea ice and flows and be within inches of the icebergs. Before lunch, we explored the ship; seeing it covered in snowfall was a surreal experience. After lunch, we geared up; as the snow settled in, we loved popping back to our room to measure the snowfall; it felt like a winter wonderland with snow filling your balcony and a little like Christmas. We love it. Brendan was our host and zodiac driver through the sea ice for one hour, providing us with lots of insights on the icebergs, sea ice and all about the nearby birdlife as he expertly dodged and weaved all the ice flows and icebergs with limited vision. Being part of the sea as it began to ice up was also fascinating. It has the same texture as a slushy; the water on the surface becomes a light shade of grey and is mushy. Great work, and thank you, Brendan, for keeping us safe. After being woken up on the water and showered with snow, we returned to the ship to bring our body temperature back to normal, prepare for dinner, and wait for the boat to unveil our next destination as we explore Antarctica. Unfortunately, the passengers who had booked the camping on the ice due to the weather were also cancelled. Day 88 - Neko Harbour, Antarctica Will we kayak in Antarctica? It is becoming a million-dollar question. Another early morning for take 3 for us kayakers who were the fortunate ones in Group A (this means we were first to kayak before all other groups). It was 8.05 am, so it was time to pop into our cold suits; one leg in, the announcement popped up that it had been cancelled, and the wind was picking up. So close! Fortunately, the zodiac was still on, and we happened to be in the first group of the day, so we dressed up for the cruising and went down to the expedition landing. We were first on the boats and surprised it was a little warmer than yesterday, much more civilised with only light snow dust. We navigated the sea ice and enormous icebergs on the hunt for some sealife; penguins were the day's spot. The icebergs glistened in the water as the sun peeked through the clouds. Just remember that the visible part of the iceberg is only 10-20% of the actual size, so most of the berg lives underwater. We could see the entire length with the water pristine, and it was just wow! On the way back to the ship, we came across a sensational raft of gentoo penguins. Forty-five minutes later, we were back on the ship, and the weather was closing in, and the captain was concerned with all the sea ice also closing in on the boat that we could be iced in the harbour, so it was time to pack up and move on. We made our way for Danco Bay, and take 4 of Kayaking was on the schedule, fingers crossed. The ship changed direction again, and a new destination was on the map until the wind blessed us with her presence at up to 90 knots at one stage, so the ship maintained its position to keep us all comfortable and to wait out Mother Nature. Later in the evening, she cruised along the majestic coastline of Antarctica, filling our senses with icy mountain peaks and wonders. We sailed into Damoy Point, a rocky headland on the west coast of Wiencke Island, filling us with more delight with the size of the glaciers. The ship decided to spend the evening as the weather conditions were good, and activities looked promising for our last day in Antarctica tomorrow. Let's go Kayaking! Today was spent enjoying the changing weather and genuinely appreciating the perils of the weather. I was fortunate to sneak in a 'patchy video' call to Mum and Dad to share the experience of the wonders of the world. Day 89 - Dorian Bay, Antarctica The million-dollar question has been answered, and we have hit the 'Kayaking in Antarctica' jackpot! 🛶 This morning, we woke early to calm waters and weather. It was five, and we were optimistic it would happen! With our cold suits and straight to the meeting point, there was no wasted time. The sooner we were on the water, the sooner it was to become a reality. Fourteen of our fellow kayakers were on the same page, and everyone was ready. We were given finishing touches to our Kayaking outfit, a unique life jacket and gloves to keep us dry and hopefully warm. We piled into the zodiacs for a short five-minute cruise across to the waiting kayaks, and one by one, we were loaded into our kayak, two per kayak. Wayne was in the back, and I was seated up front as the head photographer. Fine by me, as poor hubby would need to do all the paddling (which, after knowing my rhythm, he much preferred to take control). Before we embarked on this magical experience through sea ice, we had a quick practice and 101 on manoeuvring the kayak and, of course, staying above the water. This moment was one we had been waiting for. It is nearly 90 days since we departed Vancouver, and we were hoping to kayak in the Arctic Circle; unfortunately, the weather continued to close the opportunities. The paddling commenced, and it was surreal. We were all lined up, navigating on the water's surface through large chunks of sea ice; the paddles driving their way through the ice chunks were eerily sounding but surreal and peaceful. We arrived at the most magnificent turquoise iceberg to capture pictures up close and personal. Unbeknown to us - this same iceberg would calve and start the process of tipping over a few hours later, which we were fortunate to witness from our balcony - play with sound. We continued closer to Damoy Point, a research station home to a Gentoo penguin colony. The station was being prepared for the arrival of four female researchers to spend the summer in a few weeks, so we all floated amongst the sea ice and bergs to enjoy the serenity, overshadowed by dramatic icy mountain peaks. We watched the penguins go about their day, swimming and diving, waddling, and even swimming beneath our kayaks in the crystal waters beneath us. It was one of those magical moments that will remain with you forever. After about 1.5 hours, we returned through the sea ice. We were all becoming familiar with paddling through (or, in my case, my darling hubby was); I was too busy trying to get my little fingers and toes to circulate again and keep the phone from going for a swim in below-zero waters). We approached the ship and were to wait for our zodiacs to pick us up and take us back to our cosy cabins; they were running a little behind, so we took the opportunity to row around the ship. It was magnificent to experience this impressive vessel from the exterior and at the water level; it was surreal. We were shortly picked up once we reached the stern and delivered back to the ship. A huge thank you to Molly and Orto from the Expedition team for a memorable experience kayaking in Antarctica; it was the perfect ending to our three months onboard. The afternoon was spent enjoying a lazy lunch, reviewing the incredible photos we captured, and celebrating ticking off another bucket list experience. Kudos to Hurtigruten Expeditions for being the first cruise ship to launch Kayaking in Antarctica this summer; we were the first group out on the water this season 👏 We were scheduled for a zodiac landing later in the evening to walk through the snow and see another penguin colony, but we decided to opt-out, as it was on the peninsula. We were all hoping it was on the mainland; therefore, we wanted to stay on our natural high from the morning; it was our perfect ending to Antarctica. Dinner was spent back in Lindstrom chatting with our new Aussie friends and enjoying drinks as we entered the Drake Passage, all with fingers crossed it would bless us with a crossing of the 'Drake Lake', not the 'Drake Shake'. Day 90 - Drake Passage The Lake is slowly becoming the Shake! Therefore, it has been a slow day. We enjoyed lunch and a bottle of wine; the afternoon was spent hiding away in the suite to stay horizontal! We find it much easier on the body; the motion sickness creeps in as soon as you wander around. Fortunately, it takes quite a rocky ship now to upset us, and we know how to avoid it! Dinner was quick, and back to bed! One of those days! A little penguin love and kayaking highlights; I hope it gives you as much joy as it does me:-) Day 91 - Drake Passage This marks our last day at sea for three months. Fortunately, the Drake was easing up as we approached land around noon. We enjoyed our last day over a lazy lunch at Fredheim, thanking the team and preparing to pack our cases and disembark for the morning. Before dinner, we enjoyed catching up with the Pole-to-Pole guests for the captain's farewell; drinks were overflowing as everyone was sharing all the unused bottles of bubbles and shipboard credit, as you can't take it with you. This was followed by a fun evening with a group of lovely Aussies we met on this segment; it was full of laughter and entertainment from the crew. We were incredibly grateful to the lovely crew, who cared for us throughout the cruise; you all made our trip more delightful. Thank you, team; we will miss your friendly smiles and daily chats. Beautiful moonlight glistened over the ocean as our next and final destination, Ushuaia, welcomed us. Thank you for travelling with us as we embarked three months ago on our 'once-in-a-lifetime' cruise from North to South Pole; we hope you enjoyed our travel moments as much as we enjoyed visiting parts of the world on our bucket list. Join us as we experience our next adventure, the ' Argentina Chapter ', one month exploring a new part of the world.
- Cruising from the North to South Poles
Join us on a three-month epic Pole-to-Pole expedition with Hurtigruten of Discovery as we cruise up to the North Pole and then down to the South Pole. Our basecamp at sea is the world's first hybrid expedition cruise ship , the comfortable and stylish MS Roald Amundsen, named after the first explorer to reach the North and South Poles successfully. MS Roald Amundsen is the first of two hybrid ships in the fleet. Emissions are cut by sailing with electrical propulsion. Innovative sustainable technology reduces vessels' fuel consumption and CO2 emissions by 20 per cent. Scandinavian natural materials, such as granite, oak, birch and wool, create cosy and stylish cabins and public areas. While typical world cruises focus on a horizontal circumnavigation of the world, this expedition cruise will be unlike any other voyage, as we'll sail pole to pole. We begin our 93-day cruise in Vancouver, Canada, sailing north along the Alaskan coast and crossing the Arctic Circle as we make our way through the fabled Northwest Passage to Greenland and Baffin Island. We will then turn south along the eastern seaboard of the United States to the warm and colourful tropical islands of Central America before passing through the Panama Canal and reaching South America. Here, we'll experience a mix of culture and nature, exploring ancient sites in Ecuador, Peru, and Chile before witnessing the ethereal splendour of the Chilean fjords and Patagonia and Antarctica's pristine, otherworldly beauty.
- Fetes de Bayonne - France
Little did we know that, following San Sebastian , our journey would lead us straight to the epicentre of France's grandest festival, Fetes de Bayonne. We were astounded at our luck in finding a remarkable place to stay amid all the action, the beautiful Hôtel Villa KOEGUI Bayonne . Welcome to Bayonne, the proud host of the Fêtes de Bayonne, a vibrant festival spanning five days, with our arrival coinciding with its grand finale! This was going to be fun!! Like most destinations, our travel strategy usually involves looking at the map and choosing a midway point to our final destination to cut down on travel time, making Bayonne an ideal pit stop en route to Bordeaux. As we approached the city by bus, we were greeted by a wave of festival attendees, all uniformly dressed in red and white, mingling throughout the city. Originating in the 1980s, this dress code was inspired by the city of Pamplona's colours, boasting approximately 3 million participants over the festival's five-day duration. The city transforms into a pedestrian zone, with entry tickets required for access. The atmosphere was electric across the bridge as we navigated the buzzing crowds. Eager to dive into the festivities, our first order of business was hotel check-in and outfit planning—a challenge given our limited wardrobe options, but we had a plan! Soon, outfitted appropriately, we were at the gates, ready to buy our entry bracelets, scouring for those iconic red scarves and belts. The unity in theme across the festival was breathtaking, earning our absolute admiration. The inaugural "Fêtes de Bayonne," or "The Big Summer Festival," took place on July 13, 1932, initiated by a group of Aviron Bayonnais rugby team friends. Inspired by Pamplona's San Fermin celebrations (notably the Running of the Bulls), they wanted to bring a similar vibrancy to Bayonne. We navigated the crowds and strolled around, taking in the joy, singing and laughter amongst all the people; their energy was infectious. We would pause to listen to the performances of street musicians and artists entertaining the crowds until a quaint fromagerie Christophe Fromager beckoned us to pull up a pew, inviting us to unwind with wine and delectable cheeses amidst the drunken revelry of festival-goers, some impressively still on their feet five days in, although admittedly a few weren't upright. Next, we ventured to the arena for the bull runs; we quickly realised we weren't the only ones with that plan. Deciding to skip the long ticket line, we plunged back into the festive melee, exploring the myriad events, stages, and nightly fireworks that dotted the city, from joyous rides and games on the bridge to the DJ-saturated parks and squares. We found ourselves a cute little bar to escape the heat and crowds for a G&T. All establishments were serving from reusable glasses provided by the festival, which you could return and receive a few Euros refund; we were proud of the festival's eco-consciousness. Our quest for food led us to scout the food trucks, along with everyone else, to score a hotdog and frites, which led us into the nightly parade, a delightful spectacle of floats, dancing and confetti throwing. The night unfolded with more dancing and bar-hopping the makeshift bars, grateful for the opportunity to immerse in the rich culture and traditions of enchanting Bayonne. Watching the city return to its calm demeanour post-festival was fascinating. There was a tremendous amount of cleanup, aided by fortunate weather, and the rain gods quickly erased the lingering traces of the past days' festivities. We enjoyed relaxing and roaming the town for a few days to discover her true self and architectural brilliance. Bayonne has etched a permanent mark on our hearts with its unique charm and festivities.
- Four months cruising South America
Join us as we embark on a new 110-day cruise around South America from Miami to Miami. We joined the beautiful Marina ship with Oceania Cruises on 18 December and disembarked in Miami on 6 April. Over 110 days, we explored three continents, 17 countries, and 51 destinations, including a few bucket list destinations: Amazon, Panama Canal, and Antarctica. We look forward to sharing our four months at sea, but first, we share our first few days at sea and our Oceania experience from Miami to the Caribbean. It was our first time sailing with Oceania Cruises, and from the moment we embarked to the very last day of our 110 days, Oceania were exceptional. The crew was and is an absolute delight. The level of care and service was limitless, the energy and friendly nature of all the staff were infectious, and we quickly became friends and family. We also have left with many new friendships from our sailing, both crew and guests, which we treasure and look forward to finding each other again on our travels. The food is divine, and after four months, we still missed out on some dishes we were hoping to try. (If you recall our last three-month cruise with Hurtigruten, they repeated the same menu for two days in the suite restaurant with only three options, and then this would repeat the following week for three months; this was very disappointing), and it was refreshing to be on a ship with outstanding dining. Marina has four specialty dining restaurants (all-inclusive), and each restaurant prepares a distinctive set of dishes based on its culinary expertise. From classic French fare at Jacques to vibrant Asian cuisine at Red Ginger or Toscana, where Tuscan cuisine evolved from rich family traditions, mothers and grandmothers of Oceania's own Italian culinary staff recipes, and, of course, a favourite steakhouse at Polo Grill, all restaurants are world-class. The Grand Dining Room and a terrace cafe (buffet restaurant) serve continental cuisine. A fantastic selection of worldly cuisines changes daily, approximately on a two-week cycle. You are spoilt for choice. There are two private dining venues, Privee and La Reserve (both at additional cost). Privee is an opulent, intimate dining venue that transforms dinner between Polo Grill and Toscana into a luxurious affair. At La Reserve, you can enjoy a unique dining menu that creates distinctive pairing dinners. You also have Baristas with illy coffee (included in your cruise fare) for your morning coffee fix and afternoon tea in Horizons to treat yourself to tea and scones. Red Ginger - Asian (Specialty Restaurant) Toscana - Italian (Specialty Restaurant) Jacques - French (Specialty Restaurant) Polo Grill - Steakhouse (Specialty Restaurant) The Grand Dining Room - Continental and International cuisine (Lunch - sea days and dinner) Afternoon Tea in Horizons Marina, the ship, was built in 2011 and has a capacity of 1250 passengers and 800 crew. We found the ship spacious; you could always find a quiet, relaxing spot. The staterooms are spacious, too, and it was a treat to have a bathtub in the room. The beds are heavenly and have ample storage; you pop your suitcases under the bed, so there is no clutter. We spent much time in our balcony room and didn't feel claustrophobic. We loved the cruise over Christmas and New Year; it was a lovely way to celebrate and see all the decorations sprinkled around the ship. We were also impressed with Oceania's beautiful Christmas gifts: a gorgeous handmade wooden chopping board and a card.
- Our final day in San Sebastian
Following the epic 60th celebration , we decided to linger in San Sebastian (San Seb) for an additional day to soak in the village's beauty and uncover the old town's charms. Saturday coincided with a special event in the city—the Clásica San Sebastián , a thrilling 230 km bike race. Traffic was paused for the event, transforming the city into a festive hub, bustling with supporters cheering on their favourite cyclists. We witnessed the first few riders speeding around the final bend, their pace was lightning-fast. Our day continued with a stroll through the old town and along the bustling beach boulevard. We eventually settled into our favourite spot on the patio of Hotel Villa Favorita , where we indulged in a bottle of sparkling wine and savoured delicious snacks crafted by a Michelin-starred chef. And yes, we enjoyed a good old-fashioned pizza the night before—oh, and the night before! San Sebastián captivated us not just as a rendezvous point with dear friends but as an ideal extended getaway, surrounded by inviting coastal villages waiting to be explored. Although time was short, it's always nice to leave something for the next visit. Our Airbnb in San Sebastián couldn't have been more perfect, positioned in the heart of the city amidst stunning architecture and just steps from the waterside and local hotspots. The apartment was a sanctuary of natural light, spacious, with a fully equipped kitchen, strong Wi-Fi, and all the essentials for a comfortable stay. Our hosts, Nora and Susana, were a delight—they were attentive and always available, ready to assist with anything we needed. Sunday morning, we farewelled San Sebastián and Spain as we made our way to Bayonne in France, which also happened to be hosting the largest festival in France, 'Fetes de Bayonne', and we arrived on closing day, coming soon!
- A Memorable Sojourn to San Sebastian
After a rejuvenating pause in Madrid , we embarked on a scenic five-hour train journey to Donostia-San Sebastian. This picturesque city, nestled on the northern coast of Spain and just a stone's throw away from the French border, set the stage for a remarkable 60th birthday celebration that will be etched in our hearts forever. The enchanting escapade unfolded over three magical days, filled with the warmth of rekindled friendships and the joy of new acquaintances. We indulged in gastronomic feasts unlike any others, crafted by the hands of skilled Michelin-starred chefs. The revelry extended beyond the exquisite dishes as we raised our glasses filled with a seemingly endless flow of fine champagnes and choice wines. Each toast, each sip, contributed to an already unforgettable experience. Describing the festival of PP is challenging, for it transcends the boundaries of language. Indeed, Pedge hit the nail on the head when he complimented the orchestration of these moments, giving accolades to his beloved wife and our graceful host, who artfully earned the title of professional memory maker. This was not just a celebration but a testament to the beauty of life, friendship, and exceptional hospitality—a true symphony of experiences that will resonate with us for years to come. Day One - San Sebastian , Spain Upon arriving in San Sebastian, you instantly were impressed; it is a resort town on the Bay of Biscay in Spain's mountainous Basque Country. It's known for Playa de la Concha and Playa de Ondarreta, beaches framed by a picturesque bayfront promenade, and world-renowned restaurants helmed by innovative chefs. A total of 19 Michelin stars in such a small city makes San Sebastian the place with the highest concentration of Michelin stars per square kilometre in Europe, so you are spoilt for choice. Kyoto (Japan) is the only place in the world with a higher concentration of Michelin stars than Donostia. In addition to the beachside promenade, the cobblestoned old town (Parte Vieja) is a vibrant area full of upscale shops and pintxo bars pairing local wines with bite-size regional specialties; it is full of magic. The afternoon was ours to explore and discover this new destination; we did this the way we know best by finding a quaint dining spot, Cortázar Donostia, to enjoy lunch over champagne and more of the delectable Jamón Ibérico. Within moments, we looked across the road, and our dear friend Kristian was wandering by, so we spent the afternoon catching up on the past few years. We followed this with a stroll along the esplanade, soaking up the picturesque vibe of San Seb, and soon found ourselves with Piscos enjoying the view at the beautiful Villa Favorita , it had the most quaint balcony to sit back and soak up our new surroundings; and the cocktails were delightful! As destiny had it, we also captured a photo of our new friends enjoying the view; unbeknownst to us, we would be sharing the next few days together, and the friendship has continued after rendevous in Melbourne and Dubai, following Spain. The evening was upon us, so the first of many meetups was planned. We arrived at Geralds Bar , a local favourite of the birthday boys, to be reunited with everyone; it was a fabulous night of being reacquainted with delicious gourmet food and local wines. It was precious to catch up with our lovely friends after so many years apart, even though it felt like yesterday we were together, the epitome of true friendship. We all made new friends as we prepared for the next few days together; it was a night filled with old and new memories of Pedge, his beautiful wife shared, and a heartfelt speech to warm us all up, along with loads of laughter and love. Day Two - Getaria, Spain Day two was the main event; the boy was 60! We all met at the designated restaurant dressed to impress in Getaria, a charming fishing village a 30-minute picturesque drive along the stunning coastline. Getaria, although small, this seaside fishing village is known for fresh grilled fish and rolling vineyards that produce the unique Txakolí Basque wine. Elkano Restaurant is not only known to be the best seafood in the region, proudly holding two Michelin stars, but it is also No.16 on the Top 50 restaurants in the world. Elkano is another precious favourite of the birthday boys, and we can see why. Pre-lunch beverages were hosted on the deck overlooking the beautiful village with snippets of pristine views over the coast whilst sipping on world-class champagne. We were soon defeated by the noon sun and were all seated in a very eloquent private dining room. It was a delightful afternoon celebrating PP and hearing from his lifelong friends while enjoying delicate seafood dishes and the famous Grilled Turbot, which was mouthwatering, all accompanied by some of the world's most outstanding wines. Sadly, the birthday lunch ended, but not before we all kitted up in our new birthday tees to capture some more precious memories of the 60th celebration of Pedge; we were all transported back to San Sebastian for round three. After a quick freshen-up, we rolled into an evening of drinks overlooking the beautiful bay from the magnificent Hotel de Londres. The sun was setting with the birthday crew, and we all prepared for our final day together in the wine region La Rioja .
- Discovering the Soul of Madrid
As the vibrant capital of Spain, Madrid is a city that captures the essence of Spanish culture, art, and architecture. This cosmopolitan city is known for its elegant boulevards with over 3 million city inhabitants, and it's a playground for art lovers and architectural enthusiasts. Though our visit was brief—a quick two-night stop as part of a more extensive trip to San Sebastian —it was packed with unforgettable experiences that left us yearning to return. We checked into the charming Hotel Regina , a boutique gem with a superb central location. It proved to be the perfect base for exploring the city's bustling streets and historic squares before the midday sun intensified. We had a warm welcome on arrival from our room amidst the midsummer heat soaring to 40 degrees; he was likely feeling the swelter even more beneath his costume. Madrid's culinary scene is as diverse as it is impressive. Our first evening involved venturing to Bloved , where we indulged in the famed Jamón ibérico. Priced at €33 for 100g, this exquisite Iberian ham lived up to its reputation and price, offering a taste of luxury derived from black pigs raised on a diet of acorns in Spain's dehesa landscapes. Exploring the city's vibrant rooftop bar scene was high on our agenda. Each venue offered a unique view of Madrid's sprawling cityscape and a tempting array of cocktails and nibbles, making each stop an experience. We loved the opulent rooftop bar La Terraza at The Principal Madrid . Our adventure continued as we dipped our toes into the world of Spanish wines. The bold and robust flavours proved a bit overwhelming at first, but the sparkling delight of Cava quickly won us over. Determined to experience some of the best local cuisine, we dined at Leña Madrid. Las brasas x Dani García is renowned for its exceptional steak offerings. The restaurant's ambience, marked by plush furniture and dim lighting, set the mood for an evening of culinary excellence. We were particularly impressed by their homegrown Kobe beef—it was a gastronomic highlight not to be missed. Each moment in Madrid seemed to reveal yet another architectural masterpiece, from grandiose boulevards to intricately sculpted monuments. The city's rich history was palpable, enveloping us in a tapestry of artistic and structural beauty that begged for more time to explore fully. While two days in Madrid only scratched the surface, they left us with lasting impressions and a list of reasons to return. This city is not just a stopover; it's a destination rich with history, culture, and culinary treasures waiting to be fully explored. So, until next time, Madrid, when we can dive deeper into your vibrant spirit and uncover more of your hidden gems.
- Sato Cave Hotel - Cappadocia
Sato Cave Hotel - Two weeks Sato Cave boutique hotel is perfect for your stay in Cappadocia—It is the ultimate luxury, authentic, but modern cave hotel at excellent value. You feel an instant sense of calmness each time you enter this divine hotel. We originally booked for three nights but ended up staying two weeks. It was a magical location to work for those who needed to while travelling. We were fortunate to stay in rooms 2, 3, and 5, and they were all pure luxury. They were cosy, with heavenly linen and beds that guaranteed a peaceful and tranquil sleep each night. Room 5 is a must if you want to treat yourself to magical valley views whilst soaking in a bathtub. We loved that the rooms had no TVs, making the most of this unique and beautiful destination. The location is excellent in the heart of Goreme, and it is easy to walk everywhere. You are perched upon the rise and high enough for views over the valley, ideal for watching the incredible morning balloon flights. The breakfast is mindblowing, with a full Turkish spread that is delicious. We loved that there was no wastage, as all uneaten food was cleaned and distributed to those less fortunate in the community. The lovely team is more than happy to prepare fresh fruit accompanied by yoghurt to start your day for those who are a little more health-conscious. Hunker, Ahmet, and the lovely team made you feel at home and very welcoming, full of smiles and positive energy each day. A special thank you for taking care of us for two weeks, organising our horse riding and ballooning, and making our lives so easy so we could experience the true essence of beautiful Kapadokya.
- Ballooning in Cappadocia
Anatolian Balloons What do the tourist brochures not tell you? Here are tips to get the most out of your balloon flight in Cappadocia, Turkey. So, what traps should you avoid when taking that bucket list balloon flight in Cappadocia? Firstly, it's Instagrammer's heaven, so don't expect the reality to live up to the hype. So here is what we learned from our experience. This is overtourism at its finest. Just over 160 balloons fly each day, with an average capacity of 20 people—that's 3,000+ people per day. So here are our tips to make the most of your ballooning experience in Cappadocia. Flexibility is key. Be prepared that balloon flights are subject to the weather. Out of our two-week stay in Cappadocia, there were only three days when ballooning could occur. The cheapest will be the worst; it's a simple factor: a balloon holding 20+ people will mean you won't be standing in a spot in the balloon that is not behind another person. It's a sunk cost just getting to Cappadocia, so don't skimp on the balloon; anything more significant than an eight-person balloon means you risk experiencing a balloon flight while looking at the back of someone's head. We got talked out of an eight-person flight and got a twelve-person flight. This means three people in a one square metre area. Unfortunately, we had an overweight man who took up half of that space, so I got to chat with the pilot (with no view) for the flight while having a heavily overweight man's body pressed against me. Safety is lacking. Be prepared for the world's shortest safety briefing. Most people were not in the correct landing position, and one gust of wind would have broken several bones. People walk around the balloons, guide ropes, and vans rushing to ferry guests to drop points without understanding the risks involved. We've flown in Dubai (excellent) and Australia (unique), both completely different experiences that captured the magic of ballooning and will get you hooked on this travel experience. We even had one 'influencer' ask the pilot to set the balloon down to take photos during mid-flight. Yes, we are serious, whilst we were flying at 1,000 feet! Now, don't get me wrong. Ballooning in Cappadocia is a bucket list activity. Go in with your eyes open. Anything over eight people in a balloon will disappoint. Spend the extra euros and have a truly magical experience (we paid € 120 for each). Even better, take the personal balloon that hosts two people. You will be guaranteed the flight you were hoping for. The smaller balloons can go right down into the canyon, allowing you to touch the rock formations, put your camera away for a while, and be in the moment. Enjoy the sensory overload and wonder of Mother Nature. It truly is a magnificent landscape. The post-flight balloon experience is a non-event. Be very careful to find out what it means. Based on the certificates handed out, the one parent company owns most balloon companies, and the champagne breakfast is a cheap bottle of non-alcoholic grape juice. Kudos to our pilot from Anatolian Balloons. He was incredible and provided the best experience possible. He was very experienced and could even land the balloon on the trailer. To the couple that selected the balloon flight for two, Sally and I envy you; next time, that will be our choice! With the above tips, you will create new travel memories, and Cappadocia will be a highlight. It is a magical town. Be sure to rise early at sunrise to capture the essence of ballooning over Cappadocia. Watching 100 balloons floating through the town was indeed an experience. We stayed at Sato Cave Hotel , which has a beautiful rooftop terrace to enjoy the views.
- The Gateway to Antarctica
Ushuaia, Argentina Ushuaia, the gateway to Antarctica , deserves more time exploring its many charms. Ushuaia holds a special place in our hearts. After sailing from the North to the South Pole for over 93 days, we finished the epic adventure in Ushuaia in November 2022 to relax, reconnect with the outside world, and become grounded. So, when we returned with Oceania Cruises on our 110-day voyage around South America, we were elated; we could visit our favourite coffee shop, Ana & Juana , and restaurants and fully appreciate the stunning scenery again. We had a few stops in Ushuaia, the gateway to Antarctica, where you often begin and end the Antarctic explorations; we even enjoyed an overnight stay out on the water, which was magical. It is also the entry and exit point of the Drake Passage, so one is only too excited to see it on the horizon after the crossing from Antarctica. Another bonus is the Beagle Channel, so you are guaranteed some beautiful cruising. Sixty days into our 110 days at sea, we arrived back in majestic Ushuaia. If you had asked us a few months ago if we would have been so lucky to experience this gem four times this Summer, we wouldn't have believed you! Let's summarise the Summer of 2022/3 in South America: Three trips of the Chilean Fjords , a total of four this Summer Two sailings through Antarctica , a total of three this Summer Four sailings of the Drake Passage, a total of six this Summer; some would say we are a glutton for punishment; surprisingly, three of the four were a Drake Lake, and one was 6-7m waves. One trip to the Falklands after three attempts Four visits to Uruguay The abundance of wildlife has been thrilling: whales, dolphins, seals, sea lions, penguins (four species), birds and jellyfish. Each time we arrive, Ushuaia steals a little piece of our hearts; it is a city from a painting. We were beyond excited to sail in and see the fresh dust of snow decorating the tremendous Andes surrounding this picturesque pocket of the world. The ship was anchored on our first visit in January, as Ushuaia was at the top of every cruise ship's list. We were accompanied by ten cruise and expedition ships for the day, so there was a battle to sneak the tenders through and transport passengers into town. We opted to enjoy the day on the ship and let everyone else explore this gem today, and we appreciated the rapidly changing weather over the scenery throughout the day. Upon returning to Ushuaia from Antarctica, the weather was on our side, albeit windy and icy cold. Still, as you can imagine, we were equipped. After exploring the familiar town, we went to our coffee shop and lunch at Casimiro Biguá Parrilla & Restaurant to devour more of our favourite Patagonian lamb, accompanied by a delicious Argentinian red!! As we strolled back in the direction of the ship wandering through a park, we heard a voice announcing 'Sally', and we turned around to see a dear friend from our previous cruise who was on a neighbouring ship, so we were all over the moon to catch up after six months, and knew fate had a part to play. Nenad, it was a precious moment to reconnect in beautiful Ushuaia. The southernmost tip of the world, also known as the end of the world, Ushuaia, is one of the most beautiful places on earth; you can't get enough of the magnificent scenery. We loved seeing it change over the Summer and each month, finishing with a soft sprinkle of snow as we departed for the last time.